2022, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, VOLNAY, 1er Cru, 'CLOS des DUCS'The 2022 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is the one cuve that takes the longest to open in the glass. Like a door ajar, it lets you peek inside but not enter: mineral rich dark berry fruit, hints of Earl Grey and forest floor. This is well defined with discrete use of oak once more. The palate is medium bodied with fine tannins. There is an unerring symmetry to this Clos des Ducs, quite structured and less concentrated than some of its peers. It is more

It achieves a feat that only cool years can provide: smooth texture

Some frost meant the yields were lower than normal at 32hl/h

and the texture softens to creaminess

labour-intensive sorting of grapes and modern wine-making techniques

it retains the appealingly unfussy welcome of Ormes de Pez even with the ripe signatures of the vintage

A saline aftertaste wraps up the sapid finish

The 2020 is already an elegant chardonnay

almost understated at first but gaining vigour with aeration

Gorgeous construction and balance

Vinous (2021)

in the estimation of Grégoire Gouges

with a deep core of fruit